Manhattan – Midtown East
10 E 38th St between Fifth and Madison Aves
Manhattan, NY 10016
The second half of the name misleads because the menu sails far from Shanghai. But the "Evergreen" part is right on; the place is reliable and consistent. Dishes arrive speedily, and the flavors are as straightforward as the decor. Still, a mapo tofu stew deftly balances the tofu"s smoothness with a bite of chili oil and black pepper. The kitchen can be heavy-handed with oil, particularly in a gluten stir-fry that nonetheless retains the sweet crunch of its cucumberlike loofah (a.k.a. the bath sponge). Gingery Lion"s Head meatballs and a ginger-scallion sablefish will be better if you ask your waiter to curb the oil. Eight Jewel sticky rice, topped with roasted pumpkin seeds, is a nice cap to the meal.
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- Average main course: $13. AmEx, MC, V
Good for GroupsPrivate Function Room(s)Reservations Accepted
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