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Fussy diners should stay away from Fette Sau. There's no waiter service, no plates (barbecue by the pound is piled on butcher paper), plain cement floors and communal seating where strangers might try to strike up a conversation. But if you like the smell of wood smoke, slow-cooked pork butt, pork spareribs with a blackened crust, house-made pastrami and divinely sent beer and bourbon, this might be your kind of joint. On summer nights, muscle your way to a picnic table in the driveway. Before or after dinner, repair to Spuyten Duyvil across the street, a great bar from the same owners.