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Restaurateurs from the Arpaia family operate this welcoming place on Midtown’s east side. The restaurant nods to Italy’s many regions with grilled octopus, beef carpaccio, fresh spinach-ricotta dumplings, an expertly prepared veal chop and more, all in sizable portions. The warm setting is highlighted by blond wood and red banquettes; in spirit, it’s a neighborhood restaurant—and what a neighborhood!