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Gilles Ray"s unassuming ode to the art of the (secondhand) deal is always boisterous and bustling, and the menu is as classic as a vintage Citroen. Soupe à l"oignon is capped with Gruyère, while steak au poivre is charred, juicy and accompanied by crisp fries. Goat cheese and caramelized onions overflow from a savory variation on tarte Tatin; a pretty pink slab of salmon is drizzled with herbed olive oil and a scattering of chunky green pistachios. Servers can be a little harried, which means orders can lag (or get mixed up), but a glass from the reasonably priced wine list will take the edge off.

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