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The NYC ritual of boozing and slice-eating is honored at this sparse, brick-lined Billyburg joint. Good thing we weren"t lit when we wandered in; uninspired, congealed pies--like a cherry-tomato-studded blanket of fresh mozzarella covering a wedge of chewy, slightly sweet crust--would have killed our buzz. A grandma square was a one-note affair (just cheese), lacking enough tomato sauce to cut the fromage"s richness. Healthier options such as a slice topped with artichoke, spinach and olives reminded us of something we"d get at Ray"s.

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