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This is the way Little Italy should be, but it's nowhere near Mulberry Street. Gable's has been luring in-the-know Astorians since 1937 with superb dishes like capellini with shrimp in a garlicky lobster-essence oil. Steak, veal and chicken are offered in various preparations; even the desserts are worthwhile, especially the ricotta cheesecake. Make the mental leap to Queens; if you haven't already, you'll be glad you did.

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