If you decide to spend an evening at Gaby"s, the French brasserie nestled in the Sofitel hotel, do yourself a favor and stick with dessert. The macadamia dacquoise is blissfully chocolatey and served with an exquisite crème anglaise. Banana chocolate tart on a rich caramelized crust is equally delectable. Alas, the rest of the menu fitted the unfortunate stereotype of modern hotel-restaurant fare: mediocre, expensive and served in a fussily decorated faux-Deco dining room. However, the waitstaff is pleasant and knowledgeable, the wine list is adequately varied, and the bar would make a fab posttheater destination.