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Since opening its doors in 1919, Gene"s has remained comfortingly unchanged. White linen tablecloths, waiters in red tuxedo jackets and the ancient oak bar maintain an atmosphere that Meyer Lansky might have loved. Generous portions of pasta in zesty sauces, well-prepared chicken piccata,{/I} and fresh lobster and catch-of-the-day specials keep the old-time Village crowd happy. Service is brusque in a familial way; expect a reprimand if you don"t clean your plate before ordering the rice pudding.

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