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Chef-owner Carrie Levin"s dishes, based on family recipes, are served in grizzly-bear portions. Brunchers crowd the farmhouse-style space for fluffy eggs, fruit-packed apple pancakes and plump buttermilk biscuits with strawberry butter. At dinnertime, the crowd thins out, but the portions don"t. Everything--even the chopped salad tossed with bacon and a pinch of sugar--is aimed at hearty appetites. The meat loaf was somewhat plain, but buttery mashed potatoes made up for it. A whopping slice of two-layer white coconut cake has cream-cheese icing and a blizzard of shredded coconut on top. If home cooking were really this good, we"d still be living there.

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