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Towncars wait patiently outside for their passengers at this long-celebrated, elegant and inviting mecca for fancy (but low-key) New Yorkers. The menu is less adventurous than it once seemed, but chef-owner Alfred Portale’s execution is consistently spot-on. Seared foie gras melts on the tongue, the five-spice Peking duck breast revs up your taste buds and the miso black cod consistently delivers. Consider the $31 prix-fixe lunch, one of the best deals in town.