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The staffers at this sexy, sunset-hued little trattoria welcome you as if they"ve been expecting you all night, ushering you into a comfortable space divided by a small bar. The more intimate front section looks out onto cobblestoned streets and a church garden, while the brighter, livelier back half lets you view the open kitchen. An autunalle salad is topped with goat cheese and apricots; spiral pasta, house-made by chef-owner Maurizio Crescenzo, is paired with wild-boar sausage and mushrooms. Wood-oven-roasted lamb with Parmesan potatoes and garlic sauce typifies Grano"s rustic cuisine. Request two spoons for the chocolate polenta with vanilla sauce.

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