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The tourist hordes haven"t ruined Grimaldi"s, whose pedigree--going back to Patsy Grimaldi"s first job at his uncle"s pizzeria in 1941-- assures it guidebook coverage. The jukebox still honors Sinatra, the waitstaff is surly, and the salami-mozzarella-and-roasted pepper antipasto ($10) remains as disappointing as a handshake after a date. But oh, the pizza: a thin crust covered with a mozzarella-to-sauce ratio that achieves the Platonic ideal. Desserts, though, recall the line from The Godfather: leave the cannoli. It"s tourist-grade.

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