A lot of people love Midtown's Danji. So many, in fact, that its Flatiron District sister restaurant, Hanjan, was perpetually packed when it opened at the end of 2012. A thumbs-up review in The New York Times has helped, too, calling chef Hooni Kim "the City's leading interpreter of Korean cuisine." That's some claim, but few can dispute it after reveling in his delicate take on scallion and squid pancakes. The broth for spicy ramyun (Korean ramen) simmers for 12 hours with pork, chicken and fish bones and is served only after 10pm, a reason to hit this sleek, crowded spot on the late side. Kim excels at both traditional and modern dishes, navigating the safe waters of braised fish and fried chicken and plunging into culinary riptides with fresh-killed-chicken gizzard skewers and braised pig trotters with fermented shrimp sauce. The smart wine list is geared to go with spicy food and is derived from Oregon, France, Spain, Austria, Italy and Germany.