For Hearth to have thrived on an unlovely East Village corner since 2003, you know it has to be a destination. There's a star team behind it: chef Marco Canora, whose résumé includes Cibreo in Florence and Gramercy Tavern and Craft during Tom Colicchio's tenure, and beverage director Paul Grieco, who honed his talents at Gramercy Tavern as well, plus had stints at Bouley and Gotham Bar & Grill. The American-Italian food is first class, and the wine list is so vast, literary and esoteric it's like browsing in an independent bookstore. The partners are also behind the Terroir wine bars, with locations in the East Village, TriBeCa and Park Slope. At the warm, rustic Hearth, expect expert service and well-executed dishes like gnocchi with butter and sage, veal and ricotta meatballs with spinach cannelloni, and roasted steelhead salmon with smoked clams and trout roe.