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Classic red vinyl diner seating abounds at this Red Hook diner-cum-pub, whose interior is a reassuring alloy of a blue-tinted bar and red-brick walls, adorned with restrained art. Try the gazpacho; it"s light and well blended. Or the mac and cheese fritters, delicate, un-oily and melding nicely with the horseradish-based sauce. Move onto the moist and peppery pork burger with cheddar and apple relish (though be sure to ask for sweet potato fries instead of the standard anemic variety). If you have room, finish with the banana cream pie, a study in gustatory excess.

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