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The resemblance to Applebee"s only goes as far as the decor--brass fixtures, green-and-white checked tablecloths, copper pots and paintings of vintage cars--and the portions, which are Midwestern huge. Order the pork entrée and you"ll get a large filet, a mountain of mashed sweet potatoes and escarole. This place would be a keeper for its meat loaf alone--three slabs (baked, then grilled) are presented alongside mashed spuds and sautéed spinach, all for $11.95. Desserts are pure nostalgia: brown Betty and mud pie. Avoid the inside in good weather and camp out on one of the best people-watching patios in the West Village--see who"s looking good in the neighborhood.

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