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Laurent Saillard (better known as the stern general manager on The Restaurant{/I}) and his wife, Catherine, have created an elegant atmosphere, with white-painted brick walls and a warm-weather patio, at this Fort Greene favorite. French-accented waitresses deliver simple, straightforward food from a brief, oft-changing menu. Memories of our meal of minty cucumber soup, juicy roasted chicken with lemon-almond couscous, and two fillets of mackerel over a kimchi-and-cucumber salad has us eagerly awaiting the next installment.

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