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Since 1995, crowds have been vying for spots beneath the warm light of this trattoria"s branched chandeliers. Once seated, it"s hard to resist sticking your fork in your neighbor"s gnochetti verdi e blu (pillowy spinach gnocchi in potent Gorgonzola sauce). The tiny open kitchen also nails garlicky mussels, oven-baked lasagna oozing with béchamel and a grilled steak tagliata--the latter two are both Sunday specials. Though reservations are available, walk-ins can comfortably await a table at the restaurant"s adjacent wine bar, where patrons can sip from a selection of 70 by-the-glass wines.

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