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The pressed tin ceilings and cozy brick walls belie the disappointing food at this Northern Italian spot. Such attractive environs deserve better than dull piadina (like an Italian quesadilla), sandwiching rubbery mozzarella and arugula. Worse was a special of seafood stew featuring gummy mussels, clams and--infuriatingly--slices of imitation-crab sticks. "There was a mix-up when writing the menus," offered our waiter, after trying, unsuccessfully, to pass it off for the real thing. Crappy Italian without even the vaguest commitment to quality: That"s unforgivable.

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