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Six nights a week, octogenarian clarinetist Sol Yaged and his band perform standards from the "30s and "40s at this restaurant inside the Sutton Hotel, while couples ranging in age from 30 to 70 dance between courses. It"s a lesson in why songs like "As Time Goes By" and "Summertime" are immortal. The food isn"t bad, either. Order the toothsome house-made cavatelli or spinach salad with Gorgonzola cheese and walnuts. The Long Island duck breast has a balanced sauce of honey and grapes; the veal chop is competently prepared. But they won"t distract you from Sol"s classic stylings.

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