Say "It's a Taavo Somer place," and everyone in-the-know will know what you mean. Isa has an arresting design and doesn't look anything like Somer's other hotspots, Freemans, Peels and the Rusty Knot. No matter that it's in an off-the-beaten-path part of Williamsburg—style hounds started beating a path here the moment it opened. A wood-burning oven, stacked firewood and an austere hunting-lodge aesthetic encourage casual consumption of salads, seared meat and fish idiosyncratically paired with seasonal vegetables and garnishes. The menu changes frequently, and no matter what's offered, it's unfailingly inventively presented.