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Locals have become repeat visitors, both for the service and the food, which often has extra flourishes. Goat-cheese salad is served with a sculpted mound of potato slices on a bed of mesclun drizzled with raspberry vinaigrette. Rigatoni alla vodka is thick homemade pasta in a light, smooth tomato-and-shiitake sauce. A red velvet bench extends across one wall to provide space for large groups; simple candles and small lights cast a warm yellow glow. The bar"s after-work crowd can get a little raucous, so come early to savor your food in peace.

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