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The decor at this 45-year-old City Island institution is reminiscent of a school cafeteria--including the long lines. The attraction here is inexpensive seafood and shameless deep-fat-frying: filet of sole, red snapper, whiting, smelts, mini--lobster tails, shrimp, scallops, soft-shell crabs, clams, oysters and squid. Any of it comes freshly breaded and mercilessly fried for about $10. The Clam Bar, meanwhile, offers shucked-before-your-eyes littlenecks and cherrystones for $10 a dozen. On a nice day, grab your grub and drink, head out to the picnic tables and enjoy the view of Long Island Sound.

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