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You can imagine some "50s beatnik taking his date to John"s for a rough-around-the-edges romantic dinner. The place has been here for 100 years, and it"s a fine example of its type--caramel-colored vinyl booths, Chianti bottles dripping with candle wax, and pasta with any of ten sauces (from simple garlic, oil and anchovies to rich carbonara). Comfort yourself with the usual: minestrone; mozzarella, basil and tomato; tiramisu topped with chocolate shavings. Or try one of the faultless nightly specials: a bruschetta of the celebrated garlic bread, layered with avocado and diced tomatoes, or veal scaloppine al limone with spaghetti. It"s not fancy, but everything feels just right.

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