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Ignore the surrounding concrete, and let this 64-year-old joint"s weathered shingles and defunct lighthouse transport you far from your city life. Inside, teenagers joke around as they dish out generous portions of golden-fried seafood--clams, scallops, fish-and-chips--in a room with a marine-themed mural. Take your catch outside to a scattering of plastic tables and chairs under the awning. The feeling is so New England that you might find yourself thinking of the spot as "Jah-dan"s."

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