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This sparse, hushed eatery may be New York"s only kaiseki restaurant to offer shojin{/I}--the centuries-old Zen Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. The rotating eight-course tasting menu is an artful meditation on simplicity and seasonality. A mochi orb, speckled with bits of crisp lotus root, contrasts nicely with a dab of preserved-plum sauce; a delightfully chewy wheat gluten called fu shows up as spongy cubes mixed with spinach and tofu paste. Though nothing we ate shouted for attention, all the subtleties added up to a memorable meal.

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