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This Forest Hills newcomer is short on atmosphere, but chef-owner Katsuyuki Seo"s finely wrought Japanese cuisine more than compensates. One pristine starter featured a custardy egg in delicate bonito broth. An off-menu entrée of inaniwa udon--a regional specialty--presented smooth, springy wheat noodles. The menu also features a full sushi bar, but resist the temptation--there"s satori on the other side.

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