This Forest Hills newcomer is short on atmosphere, but chef-owner Katsuyuki Seo's finely wrought Japanese cuisine more than compensates. One pristine starter featured a custardy egg in delicate bonito broth. An off-menu entrée of inaniwa udon—a regional specialty—presented smooth, springy wheat noodles. The menu also features a full sushi bar, but resist the temptation—there's satori on the other side.
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