The "fusion restaurant as Asian theme park" is a Williamsburg staple, so it"s pretty radical of bare-bones Khao Sarn to produce great curry with none of the flurry. Jazzed-up versions of classics like Drunken Noodles (broad rice noodles mixed with chicken, bok choy, sweet basil and brown sauce) trump simple pad thai. The fiery chili sauce in the Volcanic Shrimp doesn"t overwhelm the seafood flavor. Thai green curry is light and rich, with bamboo shoots swimming in its sweet coconut curry. Tart Thai wine or coconut fried ice cream provides the perfect low-key finish--without a seven-foot Buddha glowing in colored lights.