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Laotian food is somewhat of a mystery to Westerners, but since the country shares borders and agricultural influences with Vietnam and Thailand, it feels familiar. Khe-Yo is a partnership between Laotian native Soulayphet Schwader, Marc Forgione and Nick Bradley, and its staff is well-trained to explain all the cuisine's intricacies. This is no funky ethnic café, rather a cool, spare, stylish, 64-seat TriBeCa restaurant with a French-focused wine list and Southeast Asian–accented cocktails. A basket of sticky rice arrives with dipping sauces—one mild, one explosive—representing Laos's bread and butter. Using your fingers is encouraged (sanitizing hand towels provided). Quality ingredients are locally sourced (khe-yo means "green" in Laotian) and dishes are served family-style, from whole grilled black bass to grilled half-chicken to lemongrass Berkshire spare ribs with smashed long beans and heirloom tomatoes.