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The identities of Kim and his or her aunt remain a mystery to the numerous midtown workers who cluster around this cart, which is inscribed with the words "food is love." But the cart"s appeal is anything but enigmatic. For more than two years now, it"s been drawing crowds that have fallen for its fried whiting and flounder sandwiches, served on three types of bread: Wonder, whole wheat or pita. The beef bulgogi--tender and plentiful--is also a cut above most street meat.

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