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Like its Tribeca sister, Kitchenette Uptown emphasizes the buttery, sugary side of country fare. Fried chicken soaked in buttermilk and honey is plump and moist, and thick potato pancakes with apple compote and sour cream exude sweetness. Each entrée scores you two sides--we recommend the wilted greens and four-cheese macaroni. If you can still stand up, get a slice of the chocolate-peanut-butter pie from the bakery in front. Thank goodness the walk to the nearest subway stop is uphill.

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