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To the strains of a pianist whose repertoire includes both Chopin"s Nocturne in D flat and Journey"s "Open Arms," Korea Palace serves seafood stews and grilled-at-table meats, as well as the imposing Royal Table d"Hôte, a 12- to 15-course tasting menu ($60 to $70; one-day advance notice required). The mild broth of duk mandoo gook brims with meat dumplings and slivers of rice cake; for something racier, try doenjang chigae, a spicy squid soup. At the end, you"ll be glad you didn"t let the snarling stone tigers by the entrance scare you away.

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