Kossar's has been producing bialys—traditional Polish rolls with diced onions in the depressed center—since the 1930s, but it's only been making bagels since 1998. Despite being a late bloomer, Kossar's manages to craft bagels with the same TLC it puts into its bialys (the bagels might even be better). The dough is hand-rolled and proofed for 24 hours before boiling and baking. The pumpernickel is almost black, while other flavors—poppy, sesame, everything—are dense and rich with a glossy sheen. It's a no-nonsense, take-out-only shop that sells a collection of do-it-yourself schmears, coffee and juice. You might get barked at, but it's a legitimate old-school experience.