Manhattan – Lower East Side
367 Grand St (bet. Norfolk and Essex Sts.)
Manhattan, NY 10002
Kossar's has been producing bialys—traditional Polish rolls with diced onions in the depressed center—since the 1930s, but it's only been making bagels since 1998. Despite being a late bloomer, Kossar's manages to craft bagels with the same TLC it puts into its bialys (the bagels might even be better). The dough is hand-rolled and proofed for 24 hours before boiling and baking. The pumpernickel is almost black, while other flavors—poppy, sesame, everything—are dense and rich with a glossy sheen. It's a no-nonsense, take-out-only shop that sells a collection of do-it-yourself schmears, coffee and juice. You might get barked at, but it's a legitimate old-school experience.
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