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Don"t mind the seen-it-before blond wood, bamboo and jolly gold Buddha; venture in and you will be handsomely rewarded. Vegetable gyoza and are prettily presented, but more exciting offerings, such as an avocado half filled with tuna, salmon eggs and masago, steal the show. The avocado tail on the dragon roll has an artful flourish, while the honey-shrimp-asparagus roll gets a kick from tempura flakes and sweet honey mustard. Desserts should not be overlooked, either--try the flaky, tempura-dipped green-tea ice cream. Standing by for your take-out order? Check the windowsill library of life-guiding texts and achieve enlightenment while you wait.

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