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Cobble Hill"s no-frills raw fish joint is not as ambience-oriented as its neighbors (the plushly cushioned Osaka among them), but its extremely attentive service and solid food compensate for that. The Romance roll, filled with avocado, cucumber and mango and topped with chunks of crabmeat, was plenty tasty, as was an appetizer of prettily plated egg rolls stuffed with bits of pork and vegetables. We"ll swing by again for the $8 lunch special (two rolls, shumai, and a soup or salad)--which has got to be the best deal in the neighborhood.

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