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Lace curtains and antique kitchenware lend a country-farmhouse feel to this snug, cheerful bistro. Southern French flavors--anchovies, black olives, tomatoes, saffron--dominate, as in the Marseille-style fish stew, topped with baguette toasts and spicy rouille. In a nod to the north, the juicy double-thick veal chop is paired with apples roasted in Calvados. Plan ahead: La Boite is a popular pre--Lincoln Center destination, and you"ll want to linger over a satiny smooth crème brûlée.

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