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The third iteration of this pioneering seafood eatery, which first opened on Atlantic Avenue in 1993, lacks much of the originals" appeal. Prefab design gives way to a redundant menu, featuring too many repeated ingredients--shellfish dominated the tepid appetizers, which included a dull crab-and-avocado salad. The bouillabaisse (one of two fish stews) featured funky-smelling shrimp and mussels--hardly a good showing for the namesake dish. The best thing we ate was a juicy skirt steak with crisp fries. Maybe it"s a sign that chef Neil Ganic should try a different concept.

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