Brooklyn – Red Hook
44–46 Beard St at Dwight St
The third iteration of this pioneering seafood eatery, which first opened on Atlantic Avenue in 1993, lacks much of the originals" appeal. Prefab design gives way to a redundant menu, featuring too many repeated ingredients--shellfish dominated the tepid appetizers, which included a dull crab-and-avocado salad. The bouillabaisse (one of two fish stews) featured funky-smelling shrimp and mussels--hardly a good showing for the namesake dish. The best thing we ate was a juicy skirt steak with crisp fries. Maybe it"s a sign that chef Neil Ganic should try a different concept.
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- Average main course: $15. AmEx, MC, V
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