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It's always a good sign when you walk into an unassuming hole-in-the wall and find it full of locals. Such is the case at La Cabaña, where the rib-sticking fare includes cheese-and-pork-stuffed pupusas, tender corn tamales and heaping platters of sweet plantains-sticky, candylike bites. The only false step is the overcooked shrimp in a too-tame garlic sauce, but after a glass of sweet horchata-a mixture of herbs, cocoa, cinnamon and sesame seeds-even that can be forgiven.