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The dining scene around Lincoln Center has always been inexplicably spotty. At La Fenice, however, you"re assured a lovely setting, and with careful selection, a fine meal as well. Appetizers, such as a toothsome pile of portobellos, lean heavily on grilled vegetables. Linguine with shrimp and mixed vegetables almost holds together; veal scaloppine, with an unusually thick wine sauce, is better; various grilled fish of the day, served filleted, are exquisite. If it"s nice out, skip the graceful dining room (vaulted ceiling, bronze Italian chandeliers) and take a sidewalk table with a view of the Broadway bustle.

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