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Though a red flag may go up when you see the gaucho-costumed waiters, this is no cheesy theme eatery. Photos of tango hero Carlos Gardel adorn the wood-paneled walls, and Argentine treats are geared to make porteños (Buenos Aires natives) misty-eyed. The ground beef in the baked empanadas is well seasoned; steaks are perfectly cooked. Try the tarantela{/I}--an apple-flan cake; ask for it smothered in dulce de leche.

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