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The name of this Italian eatery, which specializes in thin-crust, brick-oven pizza, means "the ace," not "the ass." Owner Robert Benevenga burns oak and cherry logs to give his crisp pies a smoky flavor, best sampled in the excellent margherita variety--though the rosemary-potato version ain"t bad either. The decor is both minimalist and warm--the hulking brick oven figures prominently, as do picture windows and unvarnished wooden banquettes. If you desire more variety, L"Asso offers plates of toothsome bresaola,{/I} as well as rosemary chicken.

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