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Forget the city"s ubiquitous faux bistros--here"s the real thing. Mirrored walls allow for people-watching, and friendly diners swap recommendations over close-set tables. There"s a lot to recommend: Oysters with a glass of champagne (or a tasting tray of five wines for $20) make for a romantic late-night snack. Charred lamb chops, compact burgers and fish (like seared sea bass with leeks and tomato confit) are more substantial and deliciously hearty. Crowds usually thin out by 3am; stop by any earlier and you"ll need a reservation.

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