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The loud, sexy music pumping through the tiny space makes Le Bilboquet seem more like a nightlife destination than a restaurant. But it"s the food that keeps the place packed: Thick chunks of fresh tuna perch between layers of lightly fried wonton skins, and tender steak tartare comes with a tower of crisp frites. You won"t find a more piquant steak au poivre this side of the Seine--here it"s a thick cut of beef in a black, peppery pool. Prices are high, but the mostly Euro regulars don"t seem to mind.

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