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If this place was good enough for Truman Capote to pass out in, it"s good enough for you. Classics are the order of business and everything is just as it should be--whether it"s a nicely dressed celery-root rémoulade or the chef"s chunky pâté, accompanied by a crock of very spicy, direct-from-Dijon mustard. Another fine crock will appear with the choucroute garni, a straightforward plate of sauerkraut surrounded by pork products galore. The biggest hit is coq au vin--the tasty chicken is smothered in a thick, tangy wine sauce studded with soft pearl onions and lots of crisp, smoky bacon.

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