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If kids ran the restaurant business, we might have a few more endearing eateries like Little Giant. This is a place where milk shakes get as much attention as main courses, and where you can fill up on pickles before your meal, then decide to eat nothing but cheese. Feel free to tuck your feet under your legs at the cushioned banquettes (all the blond-wood furniture was constructed, Lego-style, by an owner"s brother) while you contemplate how much pork you can handle in one night. Mac and cheese with applewood-smoked bacon? Sure. "Swine of the week"? Definitely. For dessert, warm, freshly baked cookies come with a glass of liqueur-spiked milk.

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