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Owners François Louy and Catherine de Zagon Louy (Cipriani, Balthazar) have returned to their Italian roots (and their home neighborhood) to create earthy, authentic food. Seasonal entrées might include branzino al cartoccio, fish baked in parchment with shallots and baby spinach, or beef braised in red wine and pepper. Pastas can be as simple as gnocchi with tomato and basil or as original as a chestnut lasagnette with chickpeas and luganega, a mild sausage. A full dessert cart brings a decision-defying array; the ricotta cheesecake made with rosewater offers a not-too-sweet finish.

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