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Warm bistro-by-numbers decor (red walls, worn tile floors, abundant brass), attentive service and a sprawling menu make Loui Loui a likable choice. Seasonings can be timid, but portions are generous. Thin-crust pizzas are yanked crisp and blistered from a wood-burning oven at the end of the bar. Try the Bizmark, an oozy combo of mozzarella, prosciutto and asparagus with an egg in the center.

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