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This Fort Greene pioneer still draws locals to its slender, fireplace-outfitted dining room and year-round garden. Most of the entrées revolve around fish: Bouillabaisse is a concoction of spicy curried tilapia, scallops and mussells with saffron aioli; grilledsalmon is served over a salad of white beans and mushrooms with a cool mint-cucumber yogurt sauce. Bistro purists will be satisfied too--steak frites and roasted chicken make appearances.

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