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Carmen Gonzalez, a Miami import, is the chef at the third iteration of this Gramercy eatery (previously Lucy, then Lucy Latin Kitchen). Her haute Puerto Rican menu doesn"t always click (see the dry grouper in a cloying orange gastrique{/I}), but beefier entrées like molten short ribs over polenta, and the excellent cocktail program do. Fittingly, the foods that complement it work best: Pair a Pisco B ({I}pisco{/I}, lemon, and thyme and agave syrups) with translucent tostones and a frothy garlic sauce. Cocktails and bar food: Restaurants have survived on less.

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